Monday, March 03, 2008
tartiflette
for me, the standard tartiflette is layers of the following baked in a casserole dish:
bacon fried with onions
boiled, sliced potatoes
crème fraîche
after the last layer you pour in enough dry white wine to fill the interstices and then lay over the top a reblochon cut through the thickness like a sandwich roll. it's then baked for 30-45 minutes, until the cheese is melted and a bit browned on top, and the liquid has stiffened somewhat. a more standard recipe is here
i chose this dish for a potluck in buffalo, NY, this weekend, since buffalo is cold and showy. i made the following improvisations:
i used waxy white potatoes, peeled them, boiled them whole, then cut them into thick slices. this is standard.
i couldn't find suitable bacon, so i got a hunk of salt pork and fried it until it was crispy. it gave crackly bits of flesh that was almost purely fat. this is a welcome effect, i say, since the overall texture of the dish was made smoother and these pieces soaked up some of the liquid.
i forgot to fry onions in the pork fat.
there was no crème fraîche, so I used sour cream. about a pint and a half went into the casserole with three pounds of potatoes.
most importantly, there was no reblochon, so i experimented with Le pié d'Angloys, another washed-rind cow cheese that has a powerful fragrance when ripe. this cheese lived up to its expectation, and its flavor completely overtook the dish.
from this, i recommend further innovation in the area of cheeses. i would try époisse or pont l'evêque next time.
